A Shoreditch pop-up where the longer you stay, the less you pay
Campo Viejo and chef José Pizarro are opening a two-night pop-up on Rivington Street, with walk-ins welcome and a bill that shrinks the longer you linger.
Anyone who has been handed a two-hour table slot and a meaningful look at the 90-minute mark will understand the thinking behind this one. This weekend, a Shoreditch pop-up is trying to reverse the usual logic of the restaurant clock.
Spanish wine brand Campo Viejo has teamed up with chef and restaurateur José Pizarro for a two-night dining experience at 83 Rivington Street. The pitch, according to the Ham & High and the Islington Gazette, is that the longer guests stay, the less they pay.
The idea: Sobremesa
The pop-up is built around Sobremesa, a Spanish ritual whose name means "over the table". It is the habit of staying long after the plates are cleared to enjoy conversation and company.
The menu has been put together by Pizarro, pairing Spanish tapas with Campo Viejo wines. Walk-ins will be accepted on both nights.
Why now: Britain is eating in a hurry
The pop-up comes with a poll attached. Campo Viejo commissioned research among 2,000 adults, with the data gathered by OnePoll.com, and the findings read like a diary of modern dining out.
- 30 per cent say they often hurry through a meal when eating out.
- 17 per cent feel uncomfortable lingering once they have finished, and want to leave as soon as the plates are cleared.
- 59 per cent have found restaurants too busy and crowded to enjoy their food, even without time pressure.
The average diner, the research found, gets through a meal in 30 minutes and then lingers for 16 after eating.
The Spanish envy
Spain comes out well. Some 26 per cent of those polled believe Spaniards have mastered the art of dining, and 42 per cent admitted they are envious of their laid-back, sociable approach to mealtimes. Another 27 per cent want to adopt more Spanish habits in their own lives.
The habits people named most often were small sharing plates rather than one big meal (30 per cent), Sobremesa itself (22 per cent) and extended lunches with time to savour every bite (21 per cent).
What would help
The appetite for slowing down is clear in the numbers. 68 per cent agreed people should spend longer around the table after a meal. 61 per cent said it would give them more time to bond with loved ones, 54 per cent thought it would lead to more meaningful conversations, and 40 per cent said it would make everyday life feel less rushed.
The barriers are ordinary ones: having too much else to do after eating (29 per cent) and differing routines within the household (28 per cent).
As for restaurants, 36 per cent would like them to extend opening hours and encourage guests to stay longer, and 35 per cent would like to see UK restaurants open until midnight. Cheaper prices (58 per cent) and feeling less rushed (15 per cent) were among the things that would encourage more food-focused outings.
Lucy Bearman, from Vinarchy, said: “We know some of the best moments happen once the plates have been cleared, when you pour another glass, carry on the conversation and realise you’re not ready to leave yet.”
It is, of course, a wine brand's campaign, and the research was commissioned by that brand. But the question it raises is a fair one for anyone who has watched a waiter hover over a finished plate.
Know before you go
- Where: 83 Rivington Street, Shoreditch, London
- When: Friday 23 and Saturday 24 October
- Booking: walk-ins accepted
- Menu: Spanish tapas by José Pizarro, paired with Campo Viejo wines
- Price: the longer guests stay, the less they pay
Sources: Ham & High, Islington Gazette
